Woven fabric is a looms in the form of picking, which is composed of warp and weft. The structure of the woven fabric is generally three types of plain, twill and satin and their changing structure (modern also due to no weaving) For the application of the machine, the weaving of such fabrics does not require a picking form, but the fabrics are still classified as woven fabrics. The components are classified into cotton fabrics, silk fabrics, wool fabrics, hemp fabrics, chemical fiber fabrics and their blended and woven fabrics. Etc., the use of woven fabrics in clothing is in a leading position both in terms of variety and production quantity. Woven garments have great processing and processing methods due to differences in style, craftsmanship and style. the difference.
Knitting is the use of knitting needles to bend the yarn into loops and form a woven fabric. The difference between knitted fabric and woven fabric is that the yarn has different shapes in the fabric. The knitting is divided into weftknitted fabric and Warpnittedfabric. At present, knitted fabrics are widely used in apparel fabrics and linings, home textiles and other products, and are loved by consumers.
Clothing design considerations
I. Using the flexibility of knitted fabrics
Knitted fabrics have good flexibility. In the design of the model, the seams, pleating, stitching, etc. designed for the shape can be minimized. Secondly, the knitted fabrics should not be used in the style of pushing and ironing. Use the elasticity of the fabric itself or the proper use of the treatment of the pleats to fit the curve of the human body. Then the size of the fabric becomes an important basis for the design of the model.
The sample of woven garments is generally larger than the area required for wrapping the human body, that is, it has a certain amount of looseness relative to the human body; and the knitted fabrics are particularly flexible fabrics according to the fabric structure used. The yarn is related to the structure.) When designing the sample, not only does it not leave a loose amount, but its sample size can be the same as the human's circumference size, and it can also reduce the size by considering the elastic coefficient.
Second, the use of knitted fabrics curling
The curling property of the knitted fabric is the edge fabric wrapping phenomenon caused by the disappearance of the stress in the edge coil of the fabric. The curling property is a disadvantage of the knitted fabric. It can cause the seam of the garment sheet to be uneven or the edge of the garment. The dimensional change ultimately affects the overall styling effect of the garment and the size of the garment. However, not all knitted fabrics have curling properties, but fabrics of individual organizational structures such as weft knitted fabrics. In the design of the template, it can be solved by adding the size of the edge, ribbing or piping, and inserting the adhesive strip on the edge of the garment. The curling of some knitted fabrics has been eliminated during the finishing of the fabric. , to avoid the trouble of the design of the template.
It should be pointed out that many designers can take advantage of the fabric's performance and take advantage of the curling of the fabric to design it in the neckline and cuffs of the model, so that the garment has a special appearance and is refreshing. Especially in the weaving of molded garments, it can also use its curling to form a unique pattern or dividing line.
Third, pay attention to the disengagement of knitted fabrics
Knitted fabrics are different in style and characteristics from woven fabrics. The style of their garments should not only emphasize the advantages of fabrics but also overcome their shortcomings. Because individual knitted fabrics have dispersibility, some fabrics should be noted when designing and making them. Use too much exaggeration, try not to design provincial and cutting lines, and the stitching seam should not be too much, in order to prevent the occurrence of the knitting coils from dissipating and affecting the wearing of the clothes. Simple and soft lines and knitwear should be used. The soft aptamer style is coordinated.
Down jacket fabrics generally have:
1. Waterproof coating (film) fabric
These fabrics are somewhat similar to the jacket fabrics, which are waterproof and moisture permeable. They are generally used in high mountain professional down jackets. But the difference is that the fabrics will be lighter and softer than the jacket fabrics. In addition, the down jackets are generally used in cold environments. The main focus is on the melting of solid water in ice and snow, so the water pressure resistance of the fabric is not as high as that of the jacket, and most down jackets made of waterproof fabric are not pressed. Another point to note is that Some low-cost down jackets use air-tight coated fabrics to prevent loosening. If it is just for everyday wear, it can be considered. Representative fabrics: dryloft, PROO-TECLM, etc.
2, high density water repellent fabric
The density of the fabric itself is very high, generally above 290T. Then the high-temperature fusion surface fabric is used to reduce the post-treatment process of the fabric gap, and the anti-textile property is improved. The fabric is light and soft, and the softness is the highest among all the down jacket fabrics. It has windproof, water repellent and breathable properties. This type of fabric is the most widely used fabric for down jackets and down sleeping bags, but the level of post-treatment technology has a great influence on the anti-velvet properties of fabrics. Representative fabrics: pertex, soft-b, etc. .
3, ordinary woven fabric plus anti-fleece cloth
Generally, the nylon or polyester with lower density is used. When the down jacket is made, the anti-velvet cloth is added on the side of the fabric to play the role of anti-velvet. The anti-velvet performance is good. The disadvantage is that the anti-velvet cloth affects the softness of the down jacket, and It increases the weight of the whole garment. The most important thing is that if the inferior fleece is used, the breathability of the down jacket will be greatly reduced, and after washing, the anti-fleece cloth will be easily broken or agglomerated. Another way is to prevent the pile. Processing, the process is to apply a layer of anti-velvet glue in the fabric layer, the fabric feels poor, and is not breathable. Represents fabric: many, but not a well-known fabric manufacturer.
Fabric type lightweight waterproof, windproof, comfortable, anti-velvet
Waterproof coating (film) fabric ★★★★★★★★★★★★
High-density water-repellent fabric ★★★★★★★★★★★★
Ordinary woven fabric with anti-fleece cloth ★★★★★★★★
Performance comparison of three types of fabrics: ★★★ indicates that the performance is the best; waterproof coating (film) fabrics assume that the fabric permeability is satisfactory, and the anti-velvet fabric inside the ordinary woven fabric is also assumed to be in compliance with the specifications; This table is only a basic reference value, the actual situation will be greater according to the process of each fabric in the three types.
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