According to the world clothing and hat network, the llama (Vicu?a, also known as the llama) is regarded as a god by the Incas. It is not unreasonable. This light-weight, cinnamon-like animal is a llama ( Llama) cousin. Their eyes are innocent and they live in the cold Andean plateau, and their fine and precious fluff is considered comparable to gold. Only the royal family of the Inca Empire were allowed to wear llama fabrics. Nearly 3 million llamas roamed the rocky mountains of the Andes before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. They used gunfire as their main means to capture the "Silk of the New World" and added display decorations to the bedroom of the Spanish monarch Philip II. For centuries, because llama fluff is better than cashmere (Cashmere), these animals are not only the object of getting fluff, but also the object of hunting.
In the 1950s, "Loma" became the reference for the two major pop cultures. More striking is the scandal of US President Dwight Eisenhower's White House chief of staff, Sherman Adams, who accepted the donation from a textile tycoon under investigation by the FBI. The horse fur coat was forced to resign in 1958, so the event will be called the "Lomama coat event"; the other is from the 1950 classic Hollywood film "Sunset Boulevard", a tailor in the film urged The fallen screenwriter played by American actor William Holden: "I don't want to take the llama hair anyway," she said.
Both moments add a fascinating aura to the expensive llamas, which are incredibly rare, with less than 5,000 remaining in the Andes since 1960. After repeated efforts, the Peruvian government issued a ban on the famous llama hunting in Peru, where the population of the Andes is relatively large. Soon this creature was adopted by the 1976 Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (abbreviated as CITES, also known as the “Washington Conventionâ€, is classified as an all-trade trade embargo and is included in the list of endangered species.
Later, the establishment of a nature reserve for the protection of Llama, Loma horse fabrics gradually lost their relationship with the younger generation of luxury consumers. However, due to the love of the fathers for the llama fluff, a pair of "Loma fans" found business opportunities on this material. They are the two co-chief co-CEOs of Italian luxury goods manufacturer Loro Piana, Sergio Loro Piana, Pier Luigi. Loro Piana brothers. Loro Piana itself was part of the “Italian Manufacturing Movement†of the 1950s and eventually grew into one of the world's largest cashmere producers and the world's largest supplier of vicuña.
Pier Luigi Loro Piana said: “We have made a lot of efforts to re-introduction of Lomama to the business world.†In the 1980s, Loro Piana officially invested in the Loma Nature Reserve and other protective measures in the medium term, actively participating in the cooperation of the Peruvian government. When talking about working with the elder brother to bring the llama back to the market, Pier Luigi Loro Piana said: "From the 1980s to the early 1990s, we made a lot of efforts to achieve this." In 1994, their excellent business vision was obtained. Reward: The “Washington Convention†has relaxed the restrictions on this animal. The Peruvian government chose Loro Piana as its exclusive partner to purchase, process and export llamas in the form of fabrics and finished products. “Since then, we have been able to purchase a large number of officially trimmed llamas from the government, research and develop new categories of products, and explore the possibilities of developing markets here.â€
Today, the global supply of llama fluff that can be converted into yarn is only about 12 tons per year, compared to about 25,000 tons of cashmere. “The cost per kilogram of llama is about $399 to $600, the cashmere is between $75 and $85, and the wool is around $5 to $6,†says Fashion Director of Première Vision at the Paris Textile and Fabrics Show. Pascaline Wilhelm said, “The llama is considered to be the best and most luxurious of these fibers. The llama is so expensive that 100% of the vicuña is extremely rare.â€
But does the Llama wool product really have a market? Or, is the Lomamao business more similar to Haute Couture – a showcase for creativity and quality – that ultimately makes it more like marketing practice?
In Harrods, the spiritual home of the rich, London's products seem to be very popular, and the theory of the economist Thorstein Veblen also believes that expensive materials are themselves the biggest selling point of such products. one. Harold David, the chief buyer of Harrods, said: "Now we have a strong demand for Llama, and our customers realize that this is one of the rarest and highest quality materials in the world." However, she declined to disclose specific sales figures, and “Our best-selling product is obviously from Loro Piana, but we also have designs from Berluti, Zegna, Brioni, Zilli and other brands.†Harrods also sells Falke pure llama at $620. Socks. Paul Falke, the current CEO of the top hosiery luxury brand, said: "In the end, we spent two years producing socks." And said that the llama was also from Loro Piana. “These llama socks are in great demand. Since llama yarns are extremely rare and exclusive, we can only produce a small amount of products each year. This is a real luxury.â€
At Loro Piana's London Bond Street boutique, a large widescreen TV broadcasts a high-definition video of a llama walking through the Andes. The store also placed a small pile of raw Llama hair, customers can touch the fluff with their own hands, as if they touched the clouds. The idea behind this is that as long as you touch the llama fluff, you know that cashmere is simply no match. As Mr. Loro Piana said: “Once you are addicted to it, it’s hard to change your mind.†The brand’s Llama sweater is priced at 4.5 times the same brand of cashmere sweater and the cashmere sweater is priced at $995. Other similar Llama V-neck sweaters are priced at $4,495. The 100% llama wool jacket and shawl of the same brand is often more expressive because of its chinchilla fur and suede lining. Some people finally see only the symbol of status. But Loro Piana's Bond Street boutique sells only one style at a time, and the Loma hair products only account for a small percentage of the display products.
“This is a small part of our company, but it is very important,†said Mr. Loro Piana. In 2013, he and his brother sold the 80% of the brand to the French luxury giant Lu Wei Xuan Group (LVMH) for $2 billion in 2013. Loro Piana, currently the world's largest manufacturer of Llama hair products, declined to disclose the portion of the company's total sales revenue.
But Mr. Loro Piana never hesitated to compare the Llama hair products to Haute Couture: "It also depends on how you define the Haute Couture," he said. "If you just mean to refer to those high-spirited The things that have no real meaning to the world, then the Loma hair products are not. But if you are referring to an expression of creativity and the highest quality, then you can indeed bring the products of Llama Compared to Haute Couture. If the Loro Piana customer's wardrobe can only have one piece of clothing, then this piece of clothing should be made of Llama.
Today, Loro Piana controls most of the Llama market in the world. The company first established the Dr. Franco Loro Piana Reserva (Rr Franco Loro Piana Reserva), which covers an area of ​​2,000 hectares in Peru in 2008, and in 2013 acquired a legally licensed country to trim wild llama fluff. The majority of the farm's shares, the farm covers an area of ​​about 85,000 hectares.
Three years ago, Loro Piana began selling llama yarn to other brands. “To be competitive and to provide materials to third parties, you need a lot of raw materials first,†explains Mario Ortelli, senior analyst at Sanford C. Bernstein. “Purchasing from These third-party brands of Loro Piana are often proud to mention this because the brand has become synonymous with llama and high quality, so this creates a win-win situation."
But now the company has taken a step back, saying only that it will sell llama and wool blends to third parties and leave 100% llama to its own products. “I think this is a good way to make Loro Piana stand out,†said Luca Solca, head of luxury at Exane BNP Paribas. “They have developed a number of raw materials, such as lotus fiber, Little cashmere, vicuña, which actually proves their ambition to be a high-end product, proves that they are different from other competitors.
Although the company dominates the supply, Loro Piana is not the only brand that can get pure Llama. Since the “Washington Convention†opened the Llama trade in 2002, other brands and factories have been purchasing wool in South America. Ermenegildo Zegna and the brand of Kering, Brioni, also started offering Llama wool products and claimed to be independent purchasing materials.
Holland & Sherry, the top fabric manufacturer at Savile Row, has been buying Lomama from Bolivia, Peru, Argentina and Chile since 2003 (the company said that because of Loro Piana's near monopoly in South America, it had to At the same time, procurement is carried out in 4 countries, otherwise it is difficult to purchase the required llama in a single country. “When they talk to customers about 'Lomama Mao,' they often mention Loro Piana,†said Richard Chambers, commercial director of Holland & Sherry. “Our service is definitely not inferior to them, but they became Loma in the early days. Part of the development process has now become a brand of LVMH, more like promoting it to other brands within the same group."
In addition, Lulu Xuan's fashion house Berluti, the first high-end ready-to-wear collection run by current creative director Haider Ackermann, also includes a double-open coat made of 100% vicuña, Berluti said Luo Horse hair is sourced from Loro Piana.
So, how does Loro Piana integrate the llama conservation into the business agenda and become the focus? “The reason why we become the market leader is because we are more likely to buy most of the materials available, and these materials are guaranteed for the breeder. The continuity of the business,†Mr. Loro Piana said, “we have to convince them to tell them that these animals deserve protection and parenting. Furthermore, to raise a llama, you need at least 10 hectares of grassland and someone to look after.â€
Meg Lukens Noonan, author of The Coat Route: On the Trail of the 50,000 Coat, began researching Llama seven years ago on "The Road to Coats: The Coat Route: On the Trail of the 50,000 Coat" I witnessed the traditional “chakku†shearing process inspired by ancient Inca civilization. She said that the Italian brand is crucial in promoting the breeding and breeding of wild llamas, but is skeptical about the trade agreement with local villagers. “In the process of harvesting the llama, these villagers are stakeholders, so for everyone, this is a profitable thing. They can get some money, and all have reason to protect the llama from poaching. "Lukens Noonan said, "But the villagers have not been able to make a lot of money, and you know the huge gap between their income and the value of the finished product."
Lukens Noonan added: "I think Loro Piana's efforts have indeed contributed to Loma's survival, but I'm not sure if Loro Piana has had a positive impact on local residents. For Peruvians, what is similar to building local manufacturing, Not so profitable, this is a very niche market."
Mr. Loro Piana also seems to be aware that the status quo must be changed in order to attract new workers into the work of full-time llama breeding. “We need a younger generation to take care of the llamas here,†he said. “But they also need to reach a similar level of living for young people in the city, otherwise they will definitely step out of the Andes.â€
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