Key words : brown colored cotton; far infrared; polypropylene; blended Natural colored cotton is a new cotton variety that uses genetic engineering to make cotton fiber itself have natural color. It does not fade after washing, and it is comfortable to wear and has no stimulation to the human body. Far-infrared polypropylene fiber is a health-care fiber that emits far-infrared rays, which can accelerate human blood microcirculation and play a role in health care and warmth. CJ/PP70/30 14.5tex (C: brown cotton, PP: far-infrared polypropylene) yarn developed by blending brown cotton and far-infrared polypropylene, not only highlights the characteristics of colored cotton, but also enhances the strength of yarn. It is used in high-grade shirt fabrics, which meets the requirements of green ecological environment and has broad market prospects. Now introduced as follows.
A blending ratio of the raw materials and optional
1.1 Xinjiang brown color cotton physical indicators Xinjiang brown color cotton grade: first grade; body length: 30.1 mm; quality length: 32.8mm; uniformity: 1290; short cashmere rate: 16 mm below 10.1 %; impurity content: 3.86%; single fiber strength: 4.85eN; maturity: 1.65; fineness: 1.53dtex; stiffness: 2.1 tablets / g; infertile seeds, broken seeds: 5.7 grains/g; with fiber seed chips: 9.5 grains/g. Looking at the whole, in addition to the high impurity content, the strength, maturity, fineness, etc. are superior to the same grade white cotton.
1.2 Physical properties of far-infrared polypropylene In addition to the health effects of far-infrared, polypropylene fiber has the characteristics of easy washing, quick drying and good shape retention after washing. Its wear resistance, tensile strength and elasticity are superior cotton. fiber. Polypropylene fiber fineness: 1.5 dtex; length: 38 mm; specific resistance: 2.92X107 Ωg/cm2; number of crimps: 9.0/25 mm; crimp: 12.7%; oil content: 0.22%.
1.3 Blending ratio matching and method To make the yarn color soft and natural, the strips are mixed in the head and the blending ratio is C:PP:70:30, which is suitable for the appearance of clothing.
2 . Process design
A blending ratio of the raw materials and optional
1.1 Xinjiang brown color cotton physical indicators Xinjiang brown color cotton grade: first grade; body length: 30.1 mm; quality length: 32.8mm; uniformity: 1290; short cashmere rate: 16 mm below 10.1 %; impurity content: 3.86%; single fiber strength: 4.85eN; maturity: 1.65; fineness: 1.53dtex; stiffness: 2.1 tablets / g; infertile seeds, broken seeds: 5.7 grains/g; with fiber seed chips: 9.5 grains/g. Looking at the whole, in addition to the high impurity content, the strength, maturity, fineness, etc. are superior to the same grade white cotton.
1.2 Physical properties of far-infrared polypropylene In addition to the health effects of far-infrared, polypropylene fiber has the characteristics of easy washing, quick drying and good shape retention after washing. Its wear resistance, tensile strength and elasticity are superior cotton. fiber. Polypropylene fiber fineness: 1.5 dtex; length: 38 mm; specific resistance: 2.92X107 Ωg/cm2; number of crimps: 9.0/25 mm; crimp: 12.7%; oil content: 0.22%.
1.3 Blending ratio matching and method To make the yarn color soft and natural, the strips are mixed in the head and the blending ratio is C:PP:70:30, which is suitable for the appearance of clothing.
2 . Process design
→FA302 type X3 three-way drawdown→FL-16 type roving→EJMl28K type spinning machine→AC238 type Schlafhorst automatic winder.
3 spinning process parameters selection and quality status
3.1 Open cleaning process
3.1.1 The color of brown cotton and cotton colored cotton is high, and the other main performance indexes are superior. The principle of “early falling, less broken, multi-row progressive opening†is adopted, and the cotton picking machine adopts micro-beam grabbing. The displacement of the gauge is too large, the speed of the beater is reduced, and the fiber damage is reduced.
3.1.2 The regain rate of far-infrared polypropylene far-infrared polypropylene fiber is almost zero, and the electrostatic entanglement in the spinning process is serious. Firstly, the pretreatment is carried out by using hot water with A070 polypropylene spinning oil agent, the ratio is 2 .5:1, evenly spraying in the inner layer of the catching disc, not only lubricates the fiber, but also reduces the static electricity of the fiber, effectively solving the phenomenon of "winding, winding, blocking and hanging" in the subsequent process. In view of the characteristics of no impurities and less defects in polypropylene fiber, the principle of "multiple loose and less hitting, combing and playing" is adopted. Only one A036 type opener is used, and the speed of each beater is low, and the distance between each hit point is biased. Great mastery, on the basis of effective opening, reduce damage to fibers and reduce cotton. The main process parameters and quality indicators of the open cleaning process are shown in Table 1.
Table 1 Main process parameters and quality indicators of the open cotton process
3 spinning process parameters selection and quality status
3.1 Open cleaning process
3.1.1 The color of brown cotton and cotton colored cotton is high, and the other main performance indexes are superior. The principle of “early falling, less broken, multi-row progressive opening†is adopted, and the cotton picking machine adopts micro-beam grabbing. The displacement of the gauge is too large, the speed of the beater is reduced, and the fiber damage is reduced.
3.1.2 The regain rate of far-infrared polypropylene far-infrared polypropylene fiber is almost zero, and the electrostatic entanglement in the spinning process is serious. Firstly, the pretreatment is carried out by using hot water with A070 polypropylene spinning oil agent, the ratio is 2 .5:1, evenly spraying in the inner layer of the catching disc, not only lubricates the fiber, but also reduces the static electricity of the fiber, effectively solving the phenomenon of "winding, winding, blocking and hanging" in the subsequent process. In view of the characteristics of no impurities and less defects in polypropylene fiber, the principle of "multiple loose and less hitting, combing and playing" is adopted. Only one A036 type opener is used, and the speed of each beater is low, and the distance between each hit point is biased. Great mastery, on the basis of effective opening, reduce damage to fibers and reduce cotton. The main process parameters and quality indicators of the open cleaning process are shown in Table 1.
Table 1 Main process parameters and quality indicators of the open cotton process
3.2 Carding process The main purpose of the carding process is to effectively comb the fibers on the basis of minimizing fiber damage, improve the separation and straightness of the single fibers, reduce the neps impurities, and thus reduce the yarn-forming strips. The dry CV value, the knot of the neps and the spun yarn, the polypropylene adopts the low speed weak comb, and the brown cotton adopts the low speed strong comb. The difficulty of the carding process lies in the fact that during the production of polypropylene, the surrounding tin forest is serious, and the cotton net is difficult to transfer to the doffer. The following measures are taken: reducing the speed of the doffer; increasing the relative humidity of the clearing and carding by 62%; Card clothing (see Table 2 for the specifications of the clothing).
The working angle of the licker roller is increased, and the tooth is shallow, so that the fiber can be smoothly transferred to the working area of ​​the cylinder, and the winding and returning phenomenon is not generated after the nip roller is combed, thereby preventing the generation of the tow fiber. The working angle of the cylinder of the cylinder is relatively large, and the tooth density is small, so that the fiber is not easy to sink into the teeth, and the transfer and release of the fiber is strengthened, and the corresponding working angle of the doffer clothing is small, and the tooth density is large, so that the fiber has Conducive to transfer to the doffer, improve the ability of the doffer to agglomerate fibers. The main process parameters and quality indicators of the carding process are shown in Table 3.
Table 2 card clothing parameters
The working angle of the licker roller is increased, and the tooth is shallow, so that the fiber can be smoothly transferred to the working area of ​​the cylinder, and the winding and returning phenomenon is not generated after the nip roller is combed, thereby preventing the generation of the tow fiber. The working angle of the cylinder of the cylinder is relatively large, and the tooth density is small, so that the fiber is not easy to sink into the teeth, and the transfer and release of the fiber is strengthened, and the corresponding working angle of the doffer clothing is small, and the tooth density is large, so that the fiber has Conducive to transfer to the doffer, improve the ability of the doffer to agglomerate fibers. The main process parameters and quality indicators of the carding process are shown in Table 3.
Table 2 card clothing parameters
Table 3 Main process parameter blocks and quality indicators of carding process
3.3 The combing process combines the characteristics of brown cotton and the quality of the sliver, and is optimized on the combing gauge and the falling gauge. The rest is basically based on the process parameters of conventional fine cotton. The main technical parameters are :
Cotton length: 5.23 mm Cotton spacer: 19mm
Carding gauge: 0.35 mm Clamping plate fulcrum position: 29.6mm
Roller gauge: 7X10mm top comb entry and exit gauge: 4mm
Top comb and rear separation rubber roller gauge: 0.75
The main quality indicators for combing are:
Dry ration: 18.7g/5 m combed strip velvet rate: 9.5%
Neps / ç–µ points: 22/29 tablets / g &
Cotton length: 5.23 mm Cotton spacer: 19mm
Carding gauge: 0.35 mm Clamping plate fulcrum position: 29.6mm
Roller gauge: 7X10mm top comb entry and exit gauge: 4mm
Top comb and rear separation rubber roller gauge: 0.75
The main quality indicators for combing are:
Dry ration: 18.7g/5 m combed strip velvet rate: 9.5%
Neps / ç–µ points: 22/29 tablets / g &
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